What is Twill fabric? 

What is Twill fabric
Fabric NameTwill Fabric
CompositionTwill Fabric Composition: A Spectrum of Options
Twill goes beyond its signature weave. The fibres used significantly impact its properties and applications. Let’s explore the composition options:

Natural Fibers:
Cotton Twill: Breathable, comfortable king of twill, ideal for everyday wear (chinos, shirts, dresses).
Linen Twill: Luxuriously breathable for summer clothes (shirts, pants), but wrinkles more easily.

Synthetic Fibers:
Polyester Twill: Wrinkle-resistant, durable workhorse used in workwear, bags, and some outdoor gear.
Nylon Twill: Offers water resistance for backpacks, but can be less breathable.

Fiber Blends:
Cotton-Polyester Blends: Popular and versatile, combining comfort with wrinkle resistance (clothing, home goods).
Wool-Twill Blends: Warm, wrinkle-resistant, and breathable for winter wear (jackets, trousers).
Possible Thread Count VariationsTwill fabric boasts a wide range of thread count variations, significantly impacting its weight, feel, and overall drape. Here’s a breakdown of the possibilities.

Low Thread Count (100-200): Common for casual wear like chinos, workwear pants, and bags. Offers breathability and comfort, but may feel less structured.

Medium Thread Count (200-300): Most versatile range for clothing. Provides a good balance between comfort, drape, and durability. Used in chinos, dress pants, shirts, and lighter jackets.

High Thread Count (300+): Denser weave for a smoother, more luxurious feel and sharper drape. Ideal for dress pants, tailored jackets, and high-quality bed sheets.
BreathabilityThe Science of Breathability:
Breathability refers to a fabric’s ability to allow air to circulate and moisture vapour to escape. This is crucial for comfort, especially in warmer weather.  Here’s how Twill’s construction impacts breathability:

Fiber Content:  Natural fibres like cotton and linen inherently breathe better than synthetic fibres like polyester. Cotton twill is a popular choice for summer clothing due to its breathability.

Weave Tightness:  A looser weave allows for better air circulation. Lower thread-count twills tend to be more breathable than high thread-count ones.

Yarn Thickness:  Finer yarns create a lighter and more breathable fabric compared to thicker yarns.
Moisture-wicking abilityMoisture-wicking: A Balancing Act
Moisture-wicking fabrics pull sweat from your skin to the fabric’s surface, where it evaporates, keeping you cool and dry. Twill’s wicking ability depends on:

Fibre Content: Natural fibres like cotton wick decently, but synthetics like polyester often excel.

Weave Tightness: Looser weaves allow better moisture movement than tightly woven twills.

Treatments: Special finishes can enhance wicking by making the fabric more water-loving.
Heat Retention AbilitySeveral factors impact the heat retention of twill fabric:

Fibre Content:  Natural fibres like wool excel at trapping heat, making wool twill a good choice for winter clothing. Cotton twill offers moderate warmth, while synthetic twills tend to be less insulating.

Weave Tightness:  Tighter weaves generally trap more air compared to looser weaves, resulting in better heat retention.

Fabric Weight:  Heavier twill fabrics naturally provide more warmth compared to lightweight options.
StretchabilityWhile stretch twill offers improved flexibility compared to classic twill, it might not be the most suitable option for activities requiring maximum movement:

Knit Fabrics: Knit fabrics, like jersey or fleece, have a natural stretch due to their looped construction, making them ideal for activewear.

Woven Fabrics with Higher Stretch: Woven fabrics blended with higher percentages of elastane (like a twill with significant elastane content) can offer superior stretch compared to traditional twill.
Prone to pilling/bubbingTwill’s susceptibility to pilling depends on several factors:

Fiber Content:  Synthetic fibres like polyester are more prone to pilling than natural fibres like cotton. However, cotton-polyester blends can also pill.

Weave Tightness:  Tighter weaves generally resist pilling better than looser weaves, as there are fewer loose fibres to snag and form balls.

Yarn Quality:  Coarse yarns are more likely to pill compared to finer yarns.
Where was Twill fabric first produced?Egypt and Mesopotamia’s
Largest producing countryChina is considered the market leader in producing twill fabric.
Recommended washing temperaturesTwill washing temperature depends on the fibres.
Cotton & Linen: Warm water (up to 40°C or 104°F).
Synthetics: Warm or cool water (up to 40°C or 104°F).
Always check the care label for specific instructions.
When unsure, use cooler water to avoid shrinkage.
Gentle detergent & minimising drying time are recommended.
Air drying is ideal whenever possible.
Care labels are key for optimal washing results.
Common applications of Twill fabricClothing: Twill’s versatility shines in shirts, pants (like chinos), dresses, skirts, jackets, and even hats.

Home Goods: Twill is a popular choice for upholstery, throw pillows, mattress ticking, and curtains.

Industrial Uses: Durable twill finds applications in bags, workwear, and even some outdoor gear.

Twill fabric is a true textile chameleon, offering a unique combination of durability, comfort, and style.  It’s not defined by a specific material, but rather by its distinctive diagonal weave. Imagine threads on a loom – in a plain weave, they go strictly over-under, under-over. But in twill, the weft thread takes a detour, going over multiple warp threads before going under one or two. This creates a subtle yet impactful diagonal pattern on the fabric surface.

This seemingly simple weave variation unlocks a world of possibilities. Twill fabrics come in a wide range of weights and compositions, making them suitable for everything from everyday wear to home furnishings. From breathable cotton chinos to sturdy workwear jackets, twill’s versatility is a major reason for its enduring popularity.

Here’s a quick glimpse into the world of twill:

  • The Look and Feel: The diagonal weave gives twill a characteristic texture, often with a slightly raised diagonal ridge when you touch it. Tighter weaves create a smoother surface, while looser weaves might feel more rustic.
  • The Benefits:  Twill offers breathability, comfort, and good drape depending on the fiber content. It’s also known for its durability, making it a great choice for clothing and home goods that need to last.
  • The Composition: While the weave defines the diagonal pattern, the fiber content determines the fabric’s specific properties. Cotton twill is known for its breathability, while polyester twill offers wrinkle resistance. Blends combine these features, creating well-rounded options.

How is the Twill Fabric Material Made of?

Twill fabric isn’t just a single material, but rather a combination of weaving technique and fiber content. Here’s a breakdown to help you understand twill:

  • Weave: This refers to how threads are interlaced on a loom. Twill has a distinct diagonal weave, where the weft thread goes over multiple warp threads and then under one or two. This creates the characteristic diagonal lines that define twill.
  • Composition: This refers to the type of fibers used to create the fabric. Common options include cotton, linen, polyester, nylon, or blends of these. The fiber content significantly impacts the final fabric’s properties.

How Weave and Composition Work Together:

  • Look and Feel: The diagonal weave gives twill a unique visual texture and a slight diagonal ridge when you touch it. Tighter weaves create a smoother surface, while looser weaves might feel more textured.
  • Properties: The chosen fiber content plays a major role. Cotton twill offers breathability and comfort, while polyester twill might be wrinkle-resistant and durable. Blends combine these properties.

Tips for Understanding Twill:

  • Look for fabric labels: They mention the weave (twill) and the fiber content (cotton, polyester, etc.).
  • Feel the fabric: Twill often has a slightly raised diagonal texture.
  • Research common twill uses: Cotton twill is popular for shirts and chinos, while polyester twill might be used in workwear or backpacks. This can give you clues about the fiber content based on typical uses.

Where does the Twill Fabric come from?

Twill Fabric

Where does the Twill Fabric come from?

The twill weave relies on a specific sequence of interlacing warp and weft threads. By offsetting the weft threads one or more positions to the right or left with each pass, the characteristic diagonal pattern emerges. Modern looms automate this process, ensuring consistent weave and high-quality fabric production.

Twill fabric, with its distinctive diagonal weave and inherent strength, is a cornerstone of the textile industry. But how does this seemingly simple pattern translate into the versatile material we know and love Let’s delve into the fascinating world of twill fabric manufacturing.

The Heart of the Process: The Loom

The magic of twill weaving lies in the loom, a machine that interlaces threads to create fabric. Modern looms are marvels of engineering, precisely controlling the movement of threads for consistent results.

The Loom
Warp and Weft

The Players: Warp and Weft

Two sets of threads come into play.

  • Warp: These are the strong, vertical threads strung tautly on the loom’s frame.
  • Weft: These are the horizontal threads that are woven through the warp threads to create the fabric.

The Art of the Twill Weave:

Unlike plain weave fabrics where the weft simply goes over and under one warp thread at a time, the magic of twill lies in the “offset.” Here’s how it works:

  1. The Initial Pass: The weft thread is woven over one or more warp threads (depending on the desired twill variation).
  2. Creating the Diagonal: In the next pass, the weft thread is shifted one or more positions to the right or left, interlacing with a different set of warp threads. This creates a diagonal “step” effect, characteristic of twill fabric.
  3. Repeating the Pattern: This pattern of over one (or more) and under one (or more) with a consistent shift to the right or left is repeated throughout the weaving process, building the diagonal twill weave.
Twill Weave

Modern Advancements:

While the basic principles of twill weaving remain the same, modern looms offer several advantages:

  • Automation:
    Computerized controls ensure consistent and precise weave patterns.
  • Speed and Efficiency:
    Modern looms can operate at high speeds, significantly increasing production output.
  • Versatility:
    Looms can be adapted to work with various yarn types and thicknesses, allowing for a wider range of twill fabrics.

From Loom to Finished Product: 

Once woven, the twill fabric undergoes various finishing processes depending on its intended use. These may include.

  • Scouring and Bleaching: Removing impurities and achieving desired colour tones.
  • Dyeing: Adding vibrant colours to the fabric.
  • Finishing Treatments: Enhancing properties like wrinkle resistance or water repellency.

What are the Commercial Applications for twill Fabric?

The strength, durability, and subtle texture of twill fabric make it a true workhorse in the commercial world. It transcends the boundaries of fashion, finding applications in a surprising range of industries. Let’s explore some of the key commercial applications of twill fabric.


Clothing Staples

Clothing Staples:

Twill reigns supreme in the world of pants. From classic chinos and work trousers to rugged jeans and tailored jackets, twill offers a blend of comfort and durability.


  • Twill’s breathability and structure make it suitable for some activewear garments, particularly pants and shorts.
  • Workwear: The hardwearing nature of twill makes it ideal for uniforms and workwear in various fields like construction, mechanics, and hospitality.

Home Goods:



Durable twill fabrics are a popular choice for furniture upholstery, offering a balance of comfort, style, and easy cleaning.

Throw Pillows and Linens:

Twill adds a touch of texture and visual interest to throw pillows and bed linens.

  • Mattress Ticking: The strength of twill makes it a suitable material for mattress ticking, the outer casing that encloses the mattress core.
Throw Pillows and Linens


  • Bags and Totes: Twill backpacks, tote bags, and travel bags benefit from the strength and structure this weave offers, making them ideal for everyday use.
  • Baseball Caps: The structured nature of twill makes it a popular choice for baseball caps and other structured hats.
  • Belts: Twill belts offer a balance of durability and style, making them a versatile accessory for both casual and formal wear.

Industrial Applications:

  • Awning Fabric: Twill’s water resistance and durability make it suitable for awnings, providing shade and protection from the elements.
  • Work Gloves: Some types of work gloves utilize twill fabric for their dexterity and abrasion resistance.
  • Tool Bags and Pouches: The strength of twill is ideal for tool bags and pouches, protecting tools from wear and tear.

Beyond the Obvious:

The versatility of twill extends beyond these common applications. Twill fabrics can be found in:

  • Tablecloths: Offering a durable and visually appealing option for table settings.
  • Drapery: While not as common as other materials, twill can be used for curtains and drapes, adding a touch of texture to a space.
  • Shoe Linings: Twill provides a comfortable and durable lining for various types of shoes.

What are the Successful Brands Utilizing Twill Fabric?

Many renowned brands recognize the value of twill fabric. From timeless Levi’s denim jeans crafted from cotton twill to the iconic Dickies workwear constructed with sturdy twill blends, this weave forms the foundation for countless fashion and utility staples



Synonymous with denim (a twill variation), Levi’s has built its legacy on the strength and durability of twill. Their classic 501 jeans, crafted from cotton twill, are a cultural icon.


A go-to for workwear, Dickies relies on sturdy twill blends in their work pants, jackets, and overalls. Their commitment to functionality aligns perfectly with the inherent properties of twill.



Beyond their signature tartan, Burberry utilizes twill in tailored trousers and trench coats. Twill’s ability to hold its shape and drape beautifully elevates these timeless pieces.


Offering a blend of classic and contemporary styles, J.Crew incorporates twill in various garments, from chinos and blazers to dresses and skirts. Their focus on quality construction ensures these pieces become wardrobe staples.

The North Face

The North Face: 

Durability is key for outdoor gear, and The North Face utilizes twill in some of their backpacks and duffel bags. The fabric’s strength ensures these bags can withstand the rigours of travel and adventure.

Herschel Supply Co:

Known for their stylish and functional backpacks, Herschel Supply Co. incorporates twill in various designs. The fabric’s structure allows for clean lines and a timeless aesthetic.

Herschel Supply Co


For those seeking heritage and quality, Filson’s twill duffel bags and briefcases offer timeless style and enduring functionality. The natural beauty of twill complements their focus on handcrafted leather accents.


Madewell champions a relaxed and effortless style, often utilizing twill in their chinos, jackets, and shirtdresses.  The fabric’s comfort and durability make it ideal for their everyday essentials.



Known for their commitment to ethical and sustainable practices, Everlane incorporates organic cotton twill in some of their clothing lines. This eco-conscious brand leverages the timeless appeal of twill while prioritizing responsible sourcing.

Supplier Information and Location for Twill fabric:

Finding twill fabric suppliers can be tricky as they often deal in bulk quantities for businesses. However, here are some resources to get you started on your search:

Online Directories:

  • ThomasNet: thomasnet.com – A large industrial B2B marketplace where you can search for textile suppliers by material (twill) and location.
  • Textile Exchange: textileexchange.org – A non-profit focused on responsible textile production. They have a searchable directory of mills and manufacturers, although searching by specific fabric types might be limited.

Fabric Wholesalers:

  • Search online: Look for fabric wholesalers in your area or online retailers specializing in wholesale fabrics. Many may offer twill fabrics in various compositions and weights.
  • Fabric sourcing websites: Mood Fabrics might offer twill options, though selection might be limited compared to bulk suppliers.

Local Textile Businesses:

  • Upholstery shops: These shops often deal with a variety of fabrics, including twill, for furniture projects. They might be able to point you towards local suppliers or sell you smaller quantities.
  • Tailors and seamstresses: These professionals often have connections with fabric suppliers and may be able to recommend a source for twill fabric.

FAQs About Twill Fabric:

What is twill fabric?

Twill fabric is a woven material characterized by its diagonal weave pattern. Unlike plain weave fabrics where threads simply go up and down, twill features a distinct diagonal “step” effect, creating a subtle texture and a slight sheen.

What is twill made of?

Twill can be crafted from various materials, including cotton (most common), silk, polyester, and even wool blends. The choice of material influences the weight, drape, and overall feel of the fabric.

What are twill pants called?

Twill pants are often referred to as chinos, a type of casual trousers known for their comfort and durability.

What does “twilled” mean?

“Twilled” simply means woven in a twill weave pattern, creating the characteristic diagonal lines on the fabric surface.

What is the definition of twill?

Twill refers to both the weaving method and the resulting fabric itself. The definition encompasses the characteristic diagonal weave structure and the fabric’s inherent properties like strength and texture.

What are some uses of twill fabric?

Twill boasts a wide range of applications, including
Apparel: Pants, jackets, shirts, dresses, and even hats.
Home Goods: Upholstery, throw pillows, mattress ticking.
Accessories: Bags, belts, baseball caps.
Industrial Uses: Awning fabric, work gloves, tool pouches.

Is twill fabric good for summer?

Cotton twill is an excellent choice for summer clothing. It’s breathable and lightweight, allowing for air circulation.

Is twill fabric waterproof?

No, the twill fabric itself isn’t waterproof. However, some twill garments can be treated with water-resistant finishes.

Is twill fabric wrinkle-resistant?

Twill fabrics made from synthetic materials like polyester tend to be more wrinkle-resistant than cotton twill.

What is the difference between twill and denim?

Denim is a type of twill fabric specifically woven with indigo-dyed yarns. While both share the diagonal weave, denim has a more rugged texture and distinct blue colour.

What is twill material?

Twill material refers to the fabric itself, woven with the diagonal twill weave pattern. It can be composed of various materials like cotton, polyester, or silk.

What is a twill weave pattern?

The twill weave pattern involves offsetting the weft thread (horizontal) by one or more positions with each pass over the warp threads (vertical). This creates the diagonal lines characteristic of twill fabric.

Can twill be used for dresses?

Absolutely Twill fabric offers various weights and textures, making it suitable for dresses. Lighter twill is ideal for summer dresses, while heavier twill can be used for structured dresses or jackets.

What is polyester twill?

Polyester twill is a variation of twill fabric made with polyester yarns. It offers advantages like wrinkle resistance and durability but may be less breathable than cotton twill.

What is the difference between twill and canvas?

Both twill and canvas are strong, durable fabrics. However, canvas typically refers to a heavier-weight fabric with a more pronounced texture compared to the subtle diagonal lines of twill.

What does “twill” mean in the New York Times crossword?

In a crossword puzzle, “twill” most likely refers to the fabric itself, woven in a diagonal pattern. Look for clues that might hint at its use in clothing (e.g., “Chino material”).

Is cotton twill good for winter?

Heavier-weight cotton twill can be suitable for winter clothing, offering warmth and structure. However, for colder climates, wool twill might be a warmer option.

What is the texture of twill fabric?

Twill fabric has a subtle diagonal texture that can be slightly rougher than a plain weave fabric. The texture can vary depending on the material used and the weight of the fabric.

What are the types of twill fabric?

There are various types of twill fabrics depending on the fibre content, weight, and weave variation. Some common types include herringbone twill, broken twill, and denim.

Is twill better than cotton?

Twill isn’t necessarily “better” than cotton; it’s a different type of weave with its own unique properties. Cotton twill offers breathability and comfort, while synthetic twills might be more durable and wrinkle-resistant. Ultimately, the best choice depends on the intended use and desired characteristics.

Debunking Popular Myths About Twill Fabric:

  • Myth 1: Twill is only for casual wear.
  • Fact: Twill’s adaptability shines in both casual and formal settings. Tailored twill trousers and blazers exude sophistication, while crisp twill shirts add a touch of polish to any outfit.
  • Myth 2: All denim is the same.
  • Fact: Denim is a specific type of twill fabric, woven with indigo-dyed yarns to create the iconic blue colour. Twill offers a wider variety of weights and textures, from lightweight chinos to heavy-duty workwear.
  • Myth 3: Twill is just for pants.
  • Fact: Twill’s versatility extends beyond pants. It’s a popular choice for jackets, shirts, dresses, skirts, and even hats, offering both style and functionality.
  • Myth 4: Twill is rough and uncomfortable.
  • Fact: While some twill fabrics can have a slightly textured feel, cotton twill offers excellent comfort and breathability. The softness can also vary depending on the weight and finishing treatments.
  • Myth 5: Twill is always thick and heavy.
  • Fact: Twill comes in a range of weights, from lightweight options ideal for summer dresses to heavier varieties suitable for winter jackets and upholstery.
  • Myth 6: Twill wrinkles easily.
  • Fact:  Cotton twill can wrinkle, but synthetic twill blends like polyester twill offer better wrinkle resistance. Additionally, proper care and ironing can minimize wrinkles in any twill fabric.
  • Myth 7: Twill is not breathable.
  • Fact:  Cotton twill, a popular choice for clothing, is known for its breathability. However, synthetic twills might be less breathable, so consider the fibre content when choosing twill garments.
  • Myth 8: Twill is not fashionable.
  • Fact: Twill is a timeless fabric that can be dressed up or down. From classic chinos to trendy jackets, twill remains a staple in the fashion world.
  • Myth 9: Twill is only for men’s clothing.
  • Facts:  Twill is a gender-neutral fabric, equally popular in both men’s and women’s clothing. It offers a variety of styles and silhouettes to suit diverse preferences.
  • Myth 10: Twill is expensive.
  • Fact:  Twill fabrics can range in price depending on the material, weight, and brand. However, it generally offers good value for its durability and versatility.
  • Myth 11: You can’t dry clean twill clothes.
  • Facts:  Many twill garments can be dry cleaned, but always check the care label for specific instructions. Some twill fabrics might be suitable for machine washing as well.
  • Myth 12: Twill is not good for hot weather.
  • Fact:  Lightweight cotton twill is an excellent choice for hot-weather clothing.  Its breathability allows for air circulation and keeps you cool.
  • Myth 13: Twill is not a good choice for formal wear.
  • Fact:  Tailored twill trousers and blazers crafted from high-quality twill can be a polished and sophisticated option for formal occasions.
  • Myth 14: Twill is difficult to care for.
  • Fact: Twill fabric is generally easy to care for. Follow the garment’s care label instructions for washing, drying, and ironing to maintain its quality.
  • Myth 15: Twill fades easily.
  • Fact: The colourfastness of twill fabric depends on the dye quality. However, proper washing practices can help minimize fading.
  • Myth 16: Twill is not a sustainable fabric.
  • Fact: Natural fibre twill fabrics like cotton can be more sustainable than synthetic options. Look for organic cotton twill for an even more eco-friendly choice.
  • Myth 17: Twill is only used in clothing.
  • Fact: Twill has a wide range of applications beyond clothing. It’s commonly used in home goods like upholstery, throw pillows, and mattress ticking.
  • Myth 18: Twill is not a strong fabric.
  • Fact: Twill’s diagonal weave structure makes it a strong and durable fabric, ideal for clothing that endures regular wear and tear, such as workwear and bags.
  • Myth 19: All twill looks the same.
  • Fact:  Twill offers a spectrum of textures and visuals. From subtle diagonals in cotton twill to bold herringbone patterns, variations in weave and yarn thickness create distinct looks. Even colour plays a role – think stripes and plaids achieved with different coloured yarns.
  • Myth 20: Twill is a new invention.
  • Fact: The twill weave is an ancient technique, dating back thousands of years. Its enduring popularity is a testament to its versatility and timeless appeal.


Twill fabric is more than just a weave it’s a testament to the ingenuity of textile craftsmanship. Durable, versatile, and available in a spectrum of materials and styles, twill continues to be a cornerstone of the fashion and utility worlds. So, the next time you reach for your favourite pair of jeans or admire the intricate details of a well-made jacket, remember the essential role twill fabric plays in shaping our world of textiles.

Read more

What is a lycra fabric?

Why a Leather Jacket?


Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here