Due to its soft feel, thermal breathability, and sustainability, lyocell has proven to be a modern, naturally regenerated cellulosic fiber, garnering acclaim and consumer trust. Lyocell is entirely manufactured from wood pulp. Common sources include eucalyptus, spruce, and beech. Lyocell is and blend of the properties comfort found in natural fibers with the attributes performance found in engineered textiles. Lyocell is widely acknowledged and celebrated in the industry for its moisture absorption, skin-friendly properties, and overall versatility in high-end fashion, techwear, and construction.
Lyocell reduces the harm to the environment through the innovative practices of the closed-loop spun process. Unlike viscose and traditional rayon, this process recycles nearly all of the solvents used for production. This lyocell has developed a positive reputation as one of the most sustainable man-made fibers available.
Lyocell is famously known for its high level of performance across multiple industries. Despite the warm and humid air conditions, lyocell remains breathable, luxuriously soft, and strong. Some attributes include the ability to resist wrinkles and a high-quality drape. Apparel, home textiles, and more, Lyocell has changed the industry.
The sustainability of Lyocell has a positive impact on consumer fashion choices, garnering its name as one of the most eco-friendly textiles available.
History of Lyocell Fabric
The history of Lyocell begins with the development of viscose rayon in the late 19th century, one of the first regenerated cellulose fibers. However, because of the environmentally damaging problems associated with the chemical production of rayon, Lyocell was invented as one of the many safer alternatives to rayon developed in the late 20th century.
The first development of Lyocell was done in the 1970s by researchers working at American Enka. However, the first production at commercial scale began in the 1990s. It was first trademarked by the Austrian company Lenzing AG and commercialized in 1992. It was renowned worldwide as TENCEL. (Woodings, 2001) The main and most important development was the ability to use N-Methylmorpholine N-Oxide (NMMO) as a fully and completely recyclable solvent, and thus cellulose could dissolve fully without needing any of the harmful chemical derivatization (Kadolph, 2014).
The first couple of decades in the 2000s saw a massive boom in cellulose textiles as a sustainable replacement for cotton, rayon, and other textiles, especially with the growth of the eco-fashion movement. It is now also popular due to its strength, biodegradability, and very low environmental footprint (Muthu, 2017).
Manufacturing Process of Lyocell Fabric
What’s special about lyocell engineering is the eco-friendly closed-loop system that is employed, which minimizes chemical waste and is resource-efficient.
1. Choice of Fiber
The process is started by a choice of wood, which is eucalyptus since it grows quickly and consumes less water, and is harvested sustainably. The wood is turned into purified cellulose pulp by debarking it and then removing lignin and other impurities. This pulp is the base of the lyocell fiber.
2. The Spinning Phase
Different from viscose, Lyocell does not involve a ceramic process. The cellulose pulp is instead simply dissolved in NMMO solvent, and then a viscous solution is formed. The solution is filtered and then extruded through spinnerets into a water basin where the fibers regenerate and solidify. Since the recovery and reuse of the solvent is around 99%, the system is sustainable.
3. The Weaving and Knitting Phase
The lyocell fibers that are formed are then washed, dried, and spun into yarns. The yarns can then be made into fabrics by weaving in a plain, twill, or satin style or by knitting.
4. The Finishing Stage
The last stage of finishing involves extracting enzymes, softeners, anti-pilling treatment, and even mechanical brushing in order to promote the texture of the fabric. These processes make the fabric more durable, promote draping, smoothness, and strengthen the surface, enabling it to be breathable and decomposable.
Properties & Characteristics of Lyocell Fabric
Lyocell is widely valued for combining the comfort of natural fibers with the performance of advanced textiles. Its molecular structure and smooth surface give it a unique balance of softness, strength, and breathability.
| Property | Lyocell | Cotton | Polyester |
| Softness | Very High | High | Medium |
| Moisture Absorption | Excellent | Good | Low |
| Strength (Wet) | Very High | Medium | Very High |
| Breathability | Excellent | Good | Low |
| Sustainability | High | Medium | Low |
Key properties of Lyocell fabric:
- Positive Comfort Level: The surface of lyocell fibers is perfect for sensitive skin, luxury clothing, and medical textiles that require high comfort levels since it does not cause skin friction and is ultra-smooth.
- Superior Moisture Wicking Ability: Lyocell is a better moisture-wicking material when compared to cotton. The material is ideal for warmer conditions as it pulls moisture away from the skin and evaporates quickly.
- Strong Lyocell holds high tensile strength even when wet, as opposed to other natural fibers. This makes Lyocell more durable and improves the garment’s lifespan.
- Adaptable to the Environment: Lyocell fibers allow for air to flow through the clothing and regulate temperature by keeping the body cool when it’s hot and warm when it’s cold.
- Odor-resistant: Lyocell is perfect for activewear, underwear, and other hygiene products as it manages moisture effectively, it is also naturally resistant to the growth of bacteria and prevents the buildup of odor.
Applications of Lyocell Fabric
Lyocell is extensively used in both the premium consumer space and high-end industrial applications due to the fiber’s comfort, strength, and sustainable properties.
Key applications
- Clothing and fashion: Lyocell is used in dresses, shirts, trousers, jeans, and activewear, thanks to its breathability, flowy drape, moisture-wicking, and softness, which makes it suitable for everyday and high-end fashion.
- Home textile: for lyocell bed sheets, pillow cases and covers, curtains, and upholstery, its durability and breathability, soft and smooth texture, and long-lasting comfort and appearance, thanks to pill-resistant fibers, make it a common choice.
- Medicine and hygiene: thanks to Lyocell’s hypoallergenic, high-strength when moist, and moisture-wicking properties, it is used in surgical gowns, wound dressings, baby and adult wipes, and other sanitary products.
- Non-woven and industrial filtration: the fiber is used in technical filters, absorbent pads, and other specialty non-woven products where high strength when wet, high absorption, and biodegradation are necessary.
- Denim and blended: Lyocell is blended with cotton and elastane to enhance drape, softness, and overall sustainability in contemporary denim fabrics while keeping structure and durability intact.
Variations/Types of Lyocell Fabric
Lyocell can be manufactured in different styles. Its versatility, along with different designs, blends, and finishes, paves the way for its applications in the industries of fashion, technology, and engineering.
Most Common Types of Lyocell
- Lyocell fabrics: These are the softest and most breathable, moisture-controlling, and environmentally friendly of all fabrics and are therefore made into high-end apparel, bed linens, and sustainable clothing.
- Lyocell-cotton blends: These blends are improved with moisture-controlling lyocell, and create a more comfortable and durable wear. They can be used in drapey shirts, denim, and casual pieces.
- Lyocell-polyester blends: These are a good option for trip wear, uniforms, and high-performance fabrics because they are soft and also enhance wrinkle resistance and strength.
- Lyocell woven twill, satin, and plain: Used for denim and pants, satin weave twill is for luxurious draping, and plain weave for lightweight shirts.
- Knitted lyocell: Used in activewear and loungewear, this highly breathable lyocell is soft and moisture-absorbing, and also retains the needed shape.
Environmental Impact of Lyocell Fabric
Closed-loop production systems and renewable raw materials allow for the production of Lyocell, which is considered one of the most eco-friendly regenerated fibers. The fiber production of lyocell originates from managed eucalyptus wood pulp, which is more environmentally sustainable than the water- and chemical-intensive process of cotton production. During production, cellulose is dissolved, and the organic, non-toxic solvents are recovered and reused, thereby minimizing environmentally harmful chemical waste from the housing process.
Compared to the production of polyester and nylon (both of which are petroleum-based and very energy-intensive), the production of Lyocell requires very little energy and water. In addition, once produced, Lyocell garments are more sustainable during use because they do not have to be washed as often, are odor-resistant, and have good moisture management. This reduces the need for washing detergents and the overall water use.
The textile is compostable at the end of its life cycle in an industrial composting unit. Lyocell does not release toxic by-products during its decomposition, and there are no barriers to the chemical and mechanical recycling of lyocell. The flexible and durable nature of lyocell makes it suitable for multi-cyclic systems, resulting in closed-loop systems for textiles.
References
- Kadolph, S. J. (2014). Textiles (10th ed.). Pearson Education.
- Muthu, S. S. (2017). Assessing the Environmental Impact of Textiles and the Clothing Supply Chain. Elsevier.
- Shen, L., Worrell, E., & Patel, M. (2010). Environmental impact assessment of man-made cellulose fibres. Resources, Conservation & Recycling, 55(2).
- Niinimäki, K. (2018). Sustainable Fashion in a Circular Economy. Aalto University Press.
- European Commission. (2020). Textiles and the Environment in a Circular Economy.
- United Nations Environment Programme. (2020). Sustainability and Circularity in the Global Textile Industry.
- Textile Exchange. (2021). Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report.
- Woodings, C. (2001). Regenerated Cellulose Fibres. Woodhead Publishing.
- Wang, L. (2019). Environmental challenges in textile wet processing. Textile Research Journal, 89(4).